Kilchoman Summer Release 2010. OB. 46%. 70cl.
Colour: Very pale. Sauvingnon Blanc with a touch of green to it.
Nose: Starts immediately on very delicate hints of oysters and lemon juice with a really clean and simple streak of earthy peat running through it. Not aggressive at all but this is probably helped by its lower bottling strength. Some coal tar soap and a little sooty waxiness then some really lovely aromas of fresh lemon zest and butter with a little creamy vanilla. This is a very fresh and lively nose but it wears its age very lightly, I would not have guessed 3 years old given this blind. Now there are more farmy notes, horse stables, hay bales and sheep’s wool. A delicate hint of olive oil and some coastal wet beach pebbles character, a little youthful minerality as well. This is not far off that great festival cask, in fact the nose is probably exatly the same profile at reduced strength. So far these Kilchoman’s are really consistent. Gets quite medicinal after a while with quite a bit of iodine and mercurochrome. Ok I can’t wait, lets taste it…
Palate: There is immediately more youthful bite on the palate but its not overpowering and gives way to some glorious farmyard peaty tones. Grassy, flinty and smoky with perhaps some gooseberries and nettle qualities, the Pouilly-Fumé of whiskies? More deft citrus and lots of clean, chewy malted barley character. Quite oily, engine oil and old boilers, its got that industrial character that is so familiar in old style highland whiskies. The peat in this is really controlled, its not a monster but it is powerful, it lets a lot of other characteristics in the whisky have a voice as well, the hallmark of a very well balanced whisky.
Finish: Medicinal, salty, peaty and long for its age. Its still very young remember so I suspect its finish will increase as it gets older.
Comments: This will be a fascinating spirit to taste as it ages, with this quality as a 3yo just imagine what it could be at 15-18 years in a good refill hoggie. It seems like there is plenty to look forward to at Kilchoman, I just hope they are able to fill a variety of casks and not just fresh bourbon barrels, but then I always moan about that. Also headgear off to them for charging a reasonable price of £45 for this bottling. Sadly there is so much substandard young whisky sold at obscene prices these days, I’m looking at you Ardbeg and Bruichladdich! This is not one of them however, this is a beautifully crafted and genuinely delicious young dram well worth every penny. If you’re still wearing a hat please take it off now.
Score: 87/100
